Perpetual Change

Kristyn in Sanremo - ready

This arrived to me in a mass email to her friends. The writer, Kristyn Tobey, was in training with me in France, but I really didn't get to know her until she and another fellow trainee, Mark, accompanied me to San Remo, Italy, on my way down to start work in Tuscany. San Remo is where I worked on the boat, and will always be a special place for me, but I think you may get a better feel from Kristyn's words, and pictures:


This time I wanted something more. I have always traveled to a place and thrown on a backpack, my trusty tennis shoes, and a defensive attitude and pounded the pavement to "see the sights." After awhile, you realize that this old stone building bares a slight resemblance to the other old stone building you saw yesterday in another town, another country, another world. I was seeing the main attractions of the place I was visiting, but I wasn't connecting with the local townspeople who live amongst these attractions every day of their lives.

After a week in Paris, I still had time to burn before I needed to leave for Czech. Yes...I will eventually be working in Europe. So...being the "girl on the go" that I am, I took an early train out of Paris, met another Backroads leader at the train station in Avignon, and went straight on through to Italy. Do not stop go. Do not collect 200 Euros. Do not do your laundry. 14 hrs, a broken train, and one precious bottle of water later...we arrived in San Remo, Italy.

Ah Italy. I have such fond memories of Italy the last time I visited. I remember crossing the French/Italian border only to be stranded for 12 hrs because of a train strike. I remember my train breaking down and leaving me alone in a train car with two Italian men and no electricity. I remember sharing a hotel room in Florence with two random strangers I met (both girls) because the hostels were all full at 2 am in the morning when I arrived (go figure). And finally, I remember splashing through the streets of Venice holding my shoes and socks above the water as I desperately navigated the narrow winding streets to make my train to Austria and get the heck outta Italy! :) But San Remo...oh San Remo. I do believe Italy just stole my affection from France.

When John, my fellow Backroads leader fresh off a two year Peace Corp term in Ukraine, told me he knew a Captain of a sailboat who "made the best tomato salad you will ever taste," I knew I was in for a treat. Little did I know that I would have to roll myself out of Italy with all the food I was about to eat.

San Remo. Currently home to the sailboat with the world's tallest mast, countless million dollar yachts with 20+ crew members, and the non assuming beautiful sail boat of Captain Nedo. The Captain is in his 70s and has worked on a boat for the past 58 years. Upon first meeting me he told me two things. One, New York has the worst tomatoes he has ever tasted in his life. And two, the most important things in this world (in this order) are food and women. Spoken like a true Italian. After getting a full tour of the sailboat by the handsome Italian/Spanish/American deck hand/engineer/jack of all trades guy, we were invited to a tomato salad dinner at the Captain's house that night in the hills of San Remo.

Imagine if you will...a beautiful green Italian hillside. Fresh rain pouring down on the leaves. Lemon, olive, and cherry trees scattering the grounds. And in the middle of it all is a tiny nursery where you can find home grown tomatoes, lettuce, and herbs...fresh for the taking. Wearing over sized green galoshes, a yellow rain jacket big enough to fit me and a few handsome Italian sailors, and the biggest grin in weeks, I ate dark red cherries off the branch, picked juicy strawberries from the ground, and learned that not all tomato picking experiences are bad! ;) [Editor's note: this is a reference to a job that Kristyn held previously in another country (I think Australia) where she worked as a field hand, eg. migrant laborer. I had nothing to do with that.]


After a meal of our fresh garden veggies and home made olive oil, the Captain brought out a few bottles of homemade Limoncello. Ah Limoncello. Consisting of lemon rinds, alcohol, sugar, and time, Limoncello gives you a sweet and syrupy kick guaranteed to make your cheeks pucker and your laughter louder. After eating one of his meals, I now understand why Nedo has not eaten in a restaurant in 30 years. Hard to compete with his own garden...

After a 14 course mushroom dinner the following night, numerous attempts to drink and actually enjoy espresso, and some hip shaking dancing at the club on the dock...this girl had to say goodbye. Duty calls. Only this time, my office is the open road and my work is whatever may roll my way.

Next broadcast coming from the Czech Republic...

Kristyn

P.S. Don't forget to check out pictures! Two new albums up: Paris and San Remo!
http://www.kristyntobey.shutterfly.com/

Labels: guest writer

posted by jjs @ 1:23 PM