Perpetual Change

Well, not exactly a marathon, but to the town of Marathon, in the Florida Keys. Our second day on the bike, we got started early Saturday with the wind at our backs, after enjoying the salt breeze during breakfast by the marina. The hotel's coffee machine wasn't working, which was causing quite a hullabaloo, but luckily (and with great dedication), Amanda had biked the 65 miles yesterday weighed down with cold brew coffee we had for breakfast in Miami!

Leaving Key Largo, we started over the 42 bridges and beautiful, aquamarine waters that connect the Keys. Our goal was to make it to Robbie's Marina by lunch, and hopefully in time for a Bloody Mary, complete with a Key West Pink (shrimp). We arrived on the “Village of Islands” – Islmorada. In time to stop and visit with some of our local friends. We checked in with JC and Kristi at Backcountry Cowboys (www.backcountrycowboy.com/), the place to go for bike and paddleboard rentals, as well as great merchandise. They are active with the local Chamber of Commerce and always let us know what is brewing in local news. Speaking of brewing, Florida Keys Brewing (https://www.floridakeysbrewingco.com/) new tasting room and garden look awesome; they were finally able to open this new location last week. Cheeca Lodge and Spa (https://www.cheeca.com/) where our Backroads trip spends two nights, is expecting to reopen at the end of the month after suffering storm surge up to the third floor on their beach-front, historic property. Chef Michael's (http://www.foodtotalkabout.com/) is also looking fresh with its new roof; there is no better place for “Peace, Love, and Hogfish” around. In addition, Chef Michael's is doing their part to help us eat our way to a healthier reef. Lion fish (https://blog.nationalgeographic.org/2016/08/29/saving-the-reef-lionfish-in-florida/) are a ravenous invasive species which are devastating our local fish, but they happen to be delicious. Although they can only be caught by spearfishing, you can often find them as a special at Chef Michael's.

We didn't have time to stop in to visit the life-size replica of Hemingway's wood fishing ship, the Pilar, at World Wide Sportsman, or enjoy the famous Meringue Key Lime Pie at Midway Cafe and Coffee Bar (http://midwaycafecoffeebar.com/our-story/ ), but they are both well worth a visit. The tarpon were calling us, so after paying some respects at the Hurricane Monument to the Great Hurricane of 1935, we headed to Robbie's Marina (http://robbies.com/tarpon.htm) We enjoyed lunch, a paddle with Paul and his dog, Bubbles, and of course, feeding the ancient wild beasts that hang out under their dock. It is always an exciting time at Robbie's.

Then we headed on South where we started to see some impact from Hurricane Irma. We cruised Long Key, a famous fishing hang out for Zane Grey. On Grassy Key, we stopped at the Dolphin Research Center (https://dolphins.org/) to help out with their new construction. We changed from our riding clothes and donated 10 man hours to paint the steps and railing on their new raised visitor center. In the Keys, most buildings have their 'ground' floor on high piers in order to protect the building from storm surge, and also to prevent the water from funneling between buildings and becoming more destructive in its rush. Uncharacteristically, new construction was a theme we saw many places in the Keys. Having grown up in Key Largo and Big Pine Key, I saw more new construction in our three days of biking than in the 15 preceding years. New hotels, resorts, condos, campgrounds, businesses, and homes. The invigoration of new spirit in the Keys was impressive.

Finally we ended our 50-mile day by biking on to Keys Fisheries (https://www.keysfisheries.com/), where we caught the sunset (and nightly toast) over their marina. Some locals we had never met, Dave and Evan, bought us a round; they were impressed with our endeavor (and maybe a few of our lady riders). Then we had some famous Lobster Reubens, Conch salad, and the best Key Lime Pie in the Keys before retiring to our hotel for the evening. Coconut Cay Resort (https://www.coconutcay.com/)

is a real traditional Keys establishment. The staff are friendly, with a bit of sass, just like family. It was another great day on the bike and water!