Monday, April 02, 2018

Long Time

I am guessing that I no longer have any regular readers, as it has been 13 years since the beginning of this blog and 5 years since I have posted. I do not have any excuses. I have been busy with the present. I have thought of it from time to time, but nothing drew me back. Until now.

I thought about closing it up, and maybe in my mind it was, but recently I was asked to write some for Backroads, and I really enjoyed it. I will be posting the four posts that I wrote here. The last 3 were shortened (and edited, not by me) and posted here.

In the interim (since my last post), I have written some, mostly for work, which means mostly biographies of foster parents. In fact that filled most of my time away. In addition, I helped Backroads launch a new trip in Florida and I wrote the cultural articles that are used on that itinerary. I will probably post those as well. Finally, I have been busy enjoying my life with my wife. We were engaged (in my mind), right about the time that I stopped writing here. Then we were officially engaged about a year later in 2014 and married in 2015. It was the best party I have ever been to. We also started our own blog, but we have not posted much there. Bekkah keeps a great Instagram feed going @beksheetz

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Sunday, March 11, 2018

Day 3 Sailing into Cayo Hueso (Key West)


After grabbing a quick breakfast, we headed out early on our final morning to cross the 7 Mile Bridge at the end of Marathon. This bridge was the greatest achievement of Henry Flagler's railroad and has withstood every hurricane since its completion in 1912. We were actually biking on the new road bridge that was completed in 1982. The original bridge, off to our right, was converted from rail to a toll road in 1938 and was so narrow, just 20 feet, that big trucks would have to pull in their rear view mirrors to pass. The old bridge was 'blown up' in 1994 during the chase seen of the movie True Lies with Arnold Schwarzenegger. We were headed the other direction, South, and left the bridge and the middle Keys behind.

Arriving in the lower Keys, we saw the greatest hurricane destruction, but yet much new construction as well. All the debris was cleared up, besides a random storm tossed boat, and the bike trails were clear and in relatively good shape. We biked through the National Key Deer Refuge (https://www.fws.gov/refuge/National_Key_Deer_Refuge/), and spotted one of the miniature bucks with 6 points, as he nibbled road-side. We then enjoyed the bike paths of Cudjoe and Summerland Keys, before hitting Baby's Coffee (https://babyscoffee.com/). The owner, Gary, retired with his wife to the Keys and flipped a quarter to see if they would open a pizza place or coffee shop. Coffee won – big time. As the Southernmost coffee roaster they have a strong following and ship beans all over the USA. They are popular with cyclists as well, because the last 16 miles of the Florida Keys Overseas Heritage Trail is complete from their shop to Key West.

Refueled on smoothies and caffeine, we made the last push. Some of the group stopped for a dip in the ocean at Smathers Beach, popular with the spring break crowds. We cruised past Casa Marina, Flagler's crown jewel hotel at the end of his railroad, and then took photos at MM 0 after competing our 165 mile sojourn. We were pretty beat though, and we didn't have much time to lounge by the pool. We checked into our home away from home, Captain's Corner (http://captainscorner.com/) and then hurried to our boat, Floridays (https://floridayskeywest.com/). It was good to see Captain Alexis again. She showed us a great sunset cruise as we passed Ocean Key Resort and Spa's (http://www.oceankey.com/) famous sunset pier, our other hotel on our Backroads Keys itinerary. We didn't expect much of a show, as there was heavy cloud cover, but then all of a sudden the sun burst through low in the skies for a spectacular sunset. Upon arriving back to Key West, just like the sailors of old, we walked across the crazy party of Duval Street to Santiago's Bodega (www.santiagosbodega.com/home.php?restaurant=1
), where we had a wonderful dinner of tapas. Several of us feel it is one of the best meals in all the Backroads' catalogue.

Finally, the next morning we headed out once more on the open water. Lazy Dog Stand Up Paddleboard (www.lazydog.com/) took us to explore to the salt flats and mangrove mazes on the back of Key West before we had to get on the road to drop our bikes off to Steve and our riders off at the airport. A few riders stayed behind to enjoy one more day in Key West and then catch the ferry to Fort Myers. And there were some odd summer-like rains that began, but not before our bikes were safely packed away. We had a great trip, and can't wait to paddle the Keys again!

A special thanks to Backroads for making it possible, to all our great partners in the Keys, our sponsors far and wide, and to our riders: Rebecca Collins (who took a break from her winter job on the mountain: https://www.vail.com/plan-your-trip/ski-and-ride-lessons.aspx), Amanda Arling (escaping the snow where she now manages in Mystic: www.whalersinnmystic.com/), John Kruchoski (on spring break from grad school:https://www.fuqua.duke.edu/) and Lara Garvas (exploring the Keys for the first time from her home in Slovenia:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=neGcwTg4AFA)

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Saturday, March 10, 2018

Day 2 Marathon Biking

Well, not exactly a marathon, but to the town of Marathon, in the Florida Keys. Our second day on the bike, we got started early Saturday with the wind at our backs, after enjoying the salt breeze during breakfast by the marina. The hotel's coffee machine wasn't working, which was causing quite a hullabaloo, but luckily (and with great dedication), Amanda had biked the 65 miles yesterday weighed down with cold brew coffee we had for breakfast in Miami!

Leaving Key Largo, we started over the 42 bridges and beautiful, aquamarine waters that connect the Keys. Our goal was to make it to Robbie's Marina by lunch, and hopefully in time for a Bloody Mary, complete with a Key West Pink (shrimp). We arrived on the “Village of Islands” – Islmorada. In time to stop and visit with some of our local friends. We checked in with JC and Kristi at Backcountry Cowboys (www.backcountrycowboy.com/), the place to go for bike and paddleboard rentals, as well as great merchandise. They are active with the local Chamber of Commerce and always let us know what is brewing in local news. Speaking of brewing, Florida Keys Brewing (https://www.floridakeysbrewingco.com/) new tasting room and garden look awesome; they were finally able to open this new location last week. Cheeca Lodge and Spa (https://www.cheeca.com/) where our Backroads trip spends two nights, is expecting to reopen at the end of the month after suffering storm surge up to the third floor on their beach-front, historic property. Chef Michael's (http://www.foodtotalkabout.com/) is also looking fresh with its new roof; there is no better place for “Peace, Love, and Hogfish” around. In addition, Chef Michael's is doing their part to help us eat our way to a healthier reef. Lion fish (https://blog.nationalgeographic.org/2016/08/29/saving-the-reef-lionfish-in-florida/) are a ravenous invasive species which are devastating our local fish, but they happen to be delicious. Although they can only be caught by spearfishing, you can often find them as a special at Chef Michael's.
We didn't have time to stop in to visit the life-size replica of Hemingway's wood fishing ship, the Pilar, at World Wide Sportsman, or enjoy the famous Meringue Key Lime Pie at Midway Cafe and Coffee Bar (http://midwaycafecoffeebar.com/our-story/ ), but they are both well worth a visit. The tarpon were calling us, so after paying some respects at the Hurricane Monument to the Great Hurricane of 1935, we headed to Robbie's Marina (http://robbies.com/tarpon.htm) We enjoyed lunch, a paddle with Paul and his dog, Bubbles, and of course, feeding the ancient wild beasts that hang out under their dock. It is always an exciting time at Robbie's.

Then we headed on South where we started to see some impact from Hurricane Irma. We cruised Long Key, a famous fishing hang out for Zane Grey. On Grassy Key, we stopped at the Dolphin Research Center (https://dolphins.org/) to help out with their new construction. We changed from our riding clothes and donated 10 man hours to paint the steps and railing on their new raised visitor center. In the Keys, most buildings have their 'ground' floor on high piers in order to protect the building from storm surge, and also to prevent the water from funneling between buildings and becoming more destructive in its rush. Uncharacteristically, new construction was a theme we saw many places in the Keys. Having grown up in Key Largo and Big Pine Key, I saw more new construction in our three days of biking than in the 15 preceding years. New hotels, resorts, condos, campgrounds, businesses, and homes. The invigoration of new spirit in the Keys was impressive.

Finally we ended our 50-mile day by biking on to Keys Fisheries (https://www.keysfisheries.com/), where we caught the sunset (and nightly toast) over their marina. Some locals we had never met, Dave and Evan, bought us a round; they were impressed with our endeavor (and maybe a few of our lady riders). Then we had some famous Lobster Reubens, Conch salad, and the best Key Lime Pie in the Keys before retiring to our hotel for the evening. Coconut Cay Resort (https://www.coconutcay.com/)
is a real traditional Keys establishment. The staff are friendly, with a bit of sass, just like family. It was another great day on the bike and water!

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Friday, March 09, 2018

Smooth 'sailing' in the Florida Keys


If you tuned in earlier, you saw my post about the impacts of Hurricane Irma in September 2017 on the Florida Keys. Well now I am back to tell you about the recovery. I got the fantastic opportunity to show these beautiful islands to some Backroads leaders, and we want to share our journey with all of you. We biked 165 miles, self-supported from Miami to Key West, showing support and solidarity for our Keys friends as we road. [Use the second photo in the dropbox of road sign with blue sky] Backroads officially showed their support by providing our bikes, despite not having any in the area this year. We rented from a great local shop in Key Largo, All Keys Cycles (http://allkeyscycles.com/index.html)

We all met up in Miami on Thursday. Our bikes were dropped off in the evening by All Keys Cyles' friendly proprietor, Steve. He said that being just 3 miles from the start of Key Largo, he often rents bikes for the 'century' ride of the Keys, but this was his first time dropping bikes off in Miami. We began to have second thoughts ourselves, as it was uncharacteristically cool for March, but we were doing much better than most of the East Coast which was getting hit with another Nor'easter. However, what would winter travel be with out delays and cancellations? Two of our riders were stuck in Charlotte, NC. After getting rerouted several times, they ended in Ft. Myers instead of Miami and made a cross Florida drive along Alligator Alley. Being late for departure with the group Friday morning, but up for a challenge, we managed to double-bike their two bikes back to the transportation hub that is Miami International Airport's Car Rental Center. Amazing Race style, we left their bikes locked with directions and sent them detailed instructions on how to drop their rental car, find their bikes, and then find us.

Our bike ride took us past through downtown Miami and past the Parrot Jungle historic entrance. This unique Florida attraction never recovered after another famous hurricane, Andrew hit in 1992, but I remember holding and feeding the birds as a child. Today you can find wild flocks of parrots in the trees of greater Miami. We also traversed the area of the University of Miami. UM has a famous football team, the Hurricanes, but their mascot is the 'fighting ibis'. We saw many of these birds foraging with their long beaks and learned that they are the mascot because they are the last animal to depart before a hurricane arrives; most animals quickly flee the dropping pressure of a large storm. We then headed out on the beautiful Old Cutler Road and Biscayne bike trails, before meeting up for great Cuban food at a local institution, Mario's Family Restaurant, (http://allkeyscycles.com/index.html) in Homestead. Homestead is famous for being the landfall location of Hurricane Andrew. We enjoyed Media Noche sandwiches, grilled beef, croquettes, plantains, and batidos (Cuban milkshakes) of Mango and (my personal favorite) Mamey.

After lunch we made the long trip down the '18 mile stretch' that connects the Keys to the mainland. This was first developed as the path for Flagler's railroad. Just before reaching Key Largo, you cross a high bridge as you ride over the Intercoastal waterway, with sweeping views of the Keys and the Atlantic Ocean. Having completed 65 miles that day, we settled into our hotel in Key Largo. With temperatures in the mid 70's, we enjoyed dinner under the open-air, thatched chickees, Seminole style. Then we rubbed shoulders at another local mainstay, Sharkey's Pub and Galley (www.sharkeysgalley.com), with some friends who are mates on the popular fishing boat, Sailor's Choice (www.sailorschoicefishingboat.com). With much live music, libations, and locals, you begin to see some of the quintessential keys characters while enjoying the fantastic sunset. It was a good first day's ride, and it was good to be back in the Keys.

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Monday, February 26, 2018

Hurricane Irma and the Keys

The Florida Keys is a string of coral islands that stretch southwest from the end of the state. They were historically oriented toward the Caribbean and a center for boat trade and commerce. Key West was the largest town in Florida and the richest per capita in the US. In the early 1900’s, Henry Flagler connected them by railroad to the rest of Florida. Today, 42 bridges connect the string of islands, and many of Flagler’s original bridges have been designated as part of the Florida Keys Overseas Heritage Trail for biking, fishing and walking. The Seven Mile Bridge, south of Marathon, was an engineering marvel and the longest in the world when built. It still stands today, although hurricanes have often threatened its existence, and many US veterans lost their lives in one storm to achieve its completion.

In September 2017, Hurricane Irma made landfall in the Florida Keys, after decimating Puerto Rico and the Caribbean. It was the first major storm to hit Florida in over a decade. Hurricane Maria raked across the Caribbean two weeks later. Due to Irma, more than ten million residents lost power and more than fifty billion dollars of damage was recorded. Irma was a Category 4 Hurricane, with sustained winds over 112 miles per hour and about 10 feet of storm surge when it hit the Florida Keys. Over a 1000 homes were completely destroyed. Over 100,000 jobs were lost in the hospitality industry in September, resulting from the impact of both Irma and Hurricane Harvey in Texas. It was the 5th costliest hurricane on record in the United States.

But the Keys have survived for 20 million years. This weekend, a merry band of Backroads leaders will embark from Miami, to celebrate that existence and the people who call them home. Much as Mr. Flagler did, they will cross the bridges to Key West, but they will do it by bicycle. Residents of the Keys want the world to know that they have survived, and as Governor Rick Scott says they are ‘open for business.’ With miles of beautiful, flat riding over waters that sparkle again, this group will travel the Keys, showcasing the sites, doing service projects, and showing solidarity for the citizens impacted by Hurricane Irma. Recovery continues six months later, and Backroads hopes to make a small difference in that effort. Backroads is also happy that official trips will return in December 2018.

Stay tuned and happy pedaling…